Berkmann's Wine Cellars

Yalumba

In an era when consolidation seems an unstoppable force and Australian wine is becoming ever more corporate, Yalumba’s steadfast independence as Australia’s oldest family-owned winery is to be applauded. Robert Hill Smith is the fifth generation in charge since the winery’s foundation in 1849, and he manages a company that boasts independence not just of ownership, but also in many aspects of production. Yalumba has its own nursery and cooperage, so all the vines and barrels used are guaranteed to be of top quality.

Their extensive range begins with the Y Series: fresh, fruit-forward varietal wines that capture the sunshine of South Australia. The company is based at Angaston, in the heart of Barossa-Eden, so the next step up is a celebration of this iconic region. The warm Barossa Valley floor brings ripeness, weight and spice to the reds, while the cooler conditions of the Eden Valley give intensely flavoured, well-defined whites.

There are two top-end tiers in the Yalumba range. Exceptional small lots of fruit go into the Hand Picked series. There is a definite Rhône influence here, with Shiraz/Viognier recalling Côte-Rôtie and Mourvèdre/Grenache/Shiraz taking its cue from Châteauneuf. The Tempranillo/Grenache/Viognier is pure Yalumba, however: an inspired experiment producing a rich, savoury wine. Tricentenary Vines Grenache is the product of bush vines planted in 1889, and hence shows historic depth of flavour.

Lastly, Yalumba’s Rare and Fine wines epitomise their achievements. Nobody else in Australia has mastered Viognier to quite the same extent, and The Virgilius exudes class and complexity. The Menzies proves there is more to Yalumba than the Barossa, with its typically cassis-laden Coonawarra Cabernet, while The Signature reaffirms their commitment to that most Australian of blends, Cabernet/Shiraz. The Octavius represents the essence of the company: Shiraz from ancient Barossa vines uniquely matured in 90-litre ‘octave’ barrels from the on-site cooperage. Listed as ‘Outstanding’ in Langton’s Classification, this is one of Australia’s greatest red wines.

Website: www.yalumba.com


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